How To Create an Eyeshadow Palette - Cruelty Free

Recently i posted a photo over on my instagram of my custom Fall time eyeshadow palette and quite a few of you lovelies wanted to know how i go about creating one, and which eyeshadows were in my palette. So here is a post for you. I have taken the time to swatch, name and describe each and every eyeshadow in my palette. I have quite a few pro palettes and enjoy switching up my eyeshadows to compliment the season. This palette is by far one of my favourites. Autumn really is the most beautiful time of the year, so i wanted my palette to represent all the beautiful colours the season has to offer; With warm golden-browns, rich burgundies, burnt oranges and the occasional pop of greens and plummy purples. The result is a palette that is both rich in warmth and colour....

This palette is made up mostly of Makeup Geek eyeshadows but there are also some from Anastasia, Karity and Morphe. I will talk about each brand at the end of the post...

Top Row L-R: Base & Highlight Shades

White Lies - Birthday Suite - Rapunzel - Shimma Shimma - Bling - Starry Eyed - Beaches & Cream  

Makeup Geek | White Lies ( Matte ).
If you are a fan of a matte highlight shade then this stark white is perfect for you. I tend to wear this when I have shimmer all over the lid to tone the eye look down. I also use this mixed with birthday suite ( below ) as my base to set my eye primer. The reason I find this a great brow-bone highlight is because it's matte, i find that matte shades don't bring unwanted attention to my hood above my eye ( I have hooded eyes ). This matte shadow can also be layered to give a very opaque finish.

Karity | Birthday Suite ( Matte ).
Birthday suite ( suit? ) is a super smooth matte Ivory shade. I use this as my base colour to set my eyeshadow primer as this helps all my following shadows to blend better. I also love this packed all over the lid for a wide eyed look. This particular eyeshadow replaced my Mac Brule.

Makeup Geek | Rapunzel ( Satin ).
Just like the Disney character's hair Rapunzel is a beautiful golden pale-yellow beige. It is neither shimmery or matte, but sits somewhere in the middle of the two. If you are someone who finds golds can wash you out then i highly recommend Rapunzel as its much more wearable than your average yellowy-gold. If I do opt for a shimmery highlight shade on my brow bone, it is often this shadow. It is incredibly beautiful packed all over the eyelid too, as I find it really helps to make my hooded eyelids look a lot bigger and opened.

Makeup Geek | Shimma Shimma (Shimmer ).
Is it just me or when you say the word shimma shimma does it also want to make you shimmy? No, ok just me then. Well, Shimma Shimma is a pretty intense champagne shade, with a slight silvery white undertone. It's a beautiful neutral shade that compliments both warm and cool eye looks. It's unbelievably creamy and instantly helps to open up the inner corner of the eye. I really like how finely milled this is and that it gives a beautiful sheen with no glitters particles in sight.

Makeup Geek | Bling ( Satin ).
I would describe Bling as a subdued some-what shimmery beige. It's not really as 'Blingy' as the name would suggest. I would say it's a more flattering wearable option to Shimma Shimma, which can be a bit too intense for some people. Bling is also really pretty packed across the lid.

Makeup Geek | Starry Eyed ( Foiled ).
Starry Eyed is a highly pigmented metallic champagne-beige with a slight subtle hint of pink. It's pretty much the warmer, pinker sister of Shimma Shimma. The colour pay-off is incredible and it applies like liquid metal. I personally love this as an inner corner highlight, but due to its slight warmth its also really pretty packed all over the lid.

Makeup Geek | Beaches & Cream ( Matte ).
Beaches & Cream is a soft warm cream. Its perfect as a base of transition shade. As you can see in the photo below its pretty much identical to my skin-tone. So, it's perfect as a first transition colour or natural base shade.

Swatches: Makeup Geek White Lies - Karity Birthday Suite - Makeup Geek Rapunzel - Makeup Geek Shimma Shimma - Makeup Geek Bling - Makeup Geek Starry Eyed - Makeup Geek Beaches & Cream

2nd Row L-R: Transition/Crease shades

Peach Smoothie - Creme Brulee - Deep Skin - Inod - Caffe Macchiato - Caramelized - Frappe

Makeup Geek | Peach Smoothie ( Matte ).
Peach smoothie is a light soft peach. It's one of Makeup Geeks most popular transition shades and is fantastic as a base or transition shade to add a slight hint of warmth and dimension to the eye - especially on fair to light-medium skin-tones.

Makeup Geek | Creme Brulee ( Matte ).
I would describe Creme Brulee as a light-medium warm soft brown, almost like the colour of sand. This is probably my most used crease shade to add a subtle hint of definition and depth to my crease, especially on the days I don't like to wear any eyeshadow and just want to run something through the crease and head out the door. A must have shade for me.

Morphe | Deep Skin ( Satin ).
I would say that Deep skin is a light warm golden-brown, with a slight peachiness to it. It's very similar to MAC's soft brown but leans just slightly more neutral. Though it is a satin finish it looks close to matte but with a ever-so-slight subtle sheen, which I find helps add dimension to the eye. Just like Creme Brulee it's one of those quickly run it through your crease shades. I also find that it suits both a cool and warm eye looks.

Karity | Inod ( Matte ).
Inod pulls more warmer that Deep skin and I would describe it as a light-warm golden brown, with more of an orange undertone as opposed to a peach. Karity describes this as a dupe to MAC's soft brown ( which is a an all time favourite of mine btw ) but Inod is just slightly less yellow that soft brown, which makes it slightly more wearable. It's such a beautiful shade to compliment neural and warm eyeshadow looks, especially on fair to medium skin-tones.

Morphe | Caffe Macchiato ( Velvet ).
Caffe Macchiato is the more satin version of Mac soft brown but slightly deeper. I would describe it as a beautiful medium-warm brown. I love that this shade works as a gorgeous crease shade for every skin tone, including deeper skin-tones. This is even richer and warmer than Inod ( above ).

Morphe | Caramelized ( Matte ).
Morphe describes this as a golden orange brown, however it's nowhere near as orange or as warm as the previous shadows ( above ). I would describe Caramelized as a rich medium neutral-brown with a slight warmth to it. It's another shade that compliments all skin tones and eye looks in the crease.

Makeup Geek | Frappe ( Matte ).
Frappe is a mid-toned medium caramel-brown with warm undertones. It is such a beautiful warm crease colour and is one of my most worn shadows in my collection. It really compliments any bronze, brown or gold eyeshadow look perfectly. Despite this being a 'matte' it does have some teeny tiny micro shimmers.

Swatches: Makeup Geek Peach Smoothie - Makeup Geek Creme Brulee - Morphe Deep Skin - Karity Inod - Morphe Caffe Macchiato - Morphe Caramelized - Makeup Geek Frappe

Middle Row L-R: Deeper Crease Shades

Spice - Cocoa Bear - Morocco - Secretive - Bitten - Cherry Cola - Preppy

Morphe | Spice ( Matte ).
Spice reminds me somewhat of Turmeric. It is a beautiful rich burnt orange. If you like really warm eyeshadows then you will love this matte shade to warm up your crease.

Makeup Geek | Cocoa Bear ( Matte ).
Probably Makeup Geeks most signature shade - well it was named after her husband. Cocoa Bear is a rich warm chocolaty brown with a red undertone. It is amazing in the crease to deepen it up adding rich warmth, but it' also simply stunning on the bottom lash-line to smoke out any dark and warm eye look. I always use this shade when doing a dark smoky eye. Another must have shade for me.

Makeup Geek | Morocco ( Matte ).
Morocco is a rich and bright terracotta orange with a hint of red. It's very warm and a great warm base for a smoky eye, especially on deeper skin tones.

Morphe | Secretive ( Matte ).
Secretive is a maroon red with slight purple undertone. This shade feels really dry in texture and can apply a bit choppy and chalky, so i like to build the colour up gradually a little bit at a time. No one wants to look like they have been punched in the eye now. It is such a pretty berry shade for the fall.

Makeup Geek | Bitten ( Matte ).
Bitten is a rich burgundy wine shade. Just like secretive ( above ) the texture of bitten is dryer and can apply a bit patchy, so I like to use the same technique. Bitten is like the sophisticated toned-down, slightly more reddish sister of Secretive. 

Makeup Geek | Cherry Cola ( Matte ).
Cherry Cola is a rich deep burgundy-brown. I find that this leans more brown than Bitten and feels a lot smoother to work with. Like the name would suggest it looks like the 'cherry cola' label you could find on a coca cola can and adds lovely deepness to the eye.

Makeup Geek | Preppy ( Matte ).
Preppy is an unusual colour. It is kind of like a dirty brown with green and mustard undertones. It's very unique and compliments deep brown and green eyeshadow looks. I prefer to use this on those with more cool undertones, but if used with the right shades it can look really pretty on warm skin-tones also.

Swatches: Morphe Spice - Makeup Geek Cocoa Bear - Makeup Geek Morocco - Morphe Secretive - Makeup Geek Bitten - Makeup Geek Cherry Cola - Makeup Geek Preppy

4th Row L-R: Lid Shades

Burlesque - Flame Thrower - RTW - Marbleized - Chai - Burlesque - Showtime

Morphe | Burlesque ( Shimmer ).
Burlesque is a warm copper with a touch of red. I like that this isn't as warm as a traditional orange-based copper as it has a beautiful red shift to it. It's so stunning packed on the lid and compliments every skin tone.

Makeup Geek | Flame Thrower ( Foiled ).
Flamethrower is an eye-catching vivid red-based burnt orange with a golden sheen. It is super smooth, incredibly opaque and stunning packed all over the lid. It literally looks like wet metal copper. I love this especially on medium to deep skin-tones.

Anastasia | RTW ( Velvet ).
RTW is a warm Medium-golden tan brown. The gold shimmer really is pretty and gives it a beautiful sheen.I love this especially on fair skin tones as the only shade on the lid and blended out up into the crease. It's especially beautiful with no makeup, a tan and a hint of bronzer.

Morphe | Marbleized ( Frost ).
Marbleized is a beautiful brassy bronzed-brown. I don't find that it leans too warm not does it lean too cool. No shimmer in sight just a beautiful sophisticated sheen. It's very opaque and smooth. Another one of those beautiful lid shades that compliments every skin tone.

Anastasia | Chai ( Satin ).
Chai is a medium-dark chocolate brown, with subtle gold shimmer. It doesn't lean too cool nor warm, but sits somewhat in the middle. However the gold shimmer makes it compliment warmer eye looks better.

Makeup Geek | Burlesque ( Shimmer ).
MUG Burlesque is a rich pigmented deep berry shade. It leans more purple but has a reddish brown undertone. It's simply beautiful on all skin tones and especially compliments brown eyes.

Makeup Geek | Showtime ( Foiled ).
Showtime is a deep bronze with a slight hint of burgundy and plum to it. This on deeper skin-tones packed on the lid is utter perfection! This foiled shadow is not a 'foiled' as the lighter shades in the collection but I like that it's slightly more subdued.

Swatches: Morphe Burlesque - Makeup Geek Flame Thrower - Anastasia Beverly Hills RTW - Morphe Marbleized - Anastasia Beverly Hills Chai - Makeup Geek Burlesque - Makeup Geek Showtime

Bottom Row L-R: Lid and deeper crease shades

Bronzed Ivy - Vino - Bada Bing - Mocha - Smoke - Rich Brown - Corrupt

Morphe | Bronzed Ivy ( Pearl ).
As the name would suggest Bronzed Ivy is an ivy green with a bronze undertone and a slight duo chrome shift. If you want to try wearing green but are too scared, bronzed ivy is the perfect shade to start out with as its not at all intimidating and works beautifully with neutral brows..

Karity | Vino ( Velvet ).
I would describe Vino as a burgundy brown and a close dupe to Mac's sketch. It leans more plum that makeup geek's cherry cola but is the same in depth. In the pan it looks more of a plum but it applies more of  a brown with a slight purple undertone to it.

Makeup Geek | Bada Bing ( Matte Shimmer ).
Bada Bing is a deep neutral-toned brown with fine gold glitter particles. It's another of my favourite shades and I own this 'particular style shade' in an array of brands as I always gravitate towards rich browns with gold shimmer, i honestly don't know why lol. Despite containing glitter it looks beautiful in the crease, even on hooded lids and the glitter is not at all obnoxious.

Makeup Geek | Mocha ( Matte ).
Mocha is a neutral deep-dark matte brown. It doesn't lean too warm or cool therefore it compliments every eye look and very much reminds me of a cup of rich coffee. Making the name very fitting.

Anastasia | Smoke ( Ultra-Matte ).
Smoke is a deep-dark charcoal brown. The deepest a brown you can get. If you feel that black is too harsh then I highly recommend this shadow. As the name would suggest this is stunning for smoking out the outer corner and bottom lash-line when creating a rich smoky eye. Its also brilliant for filling in dark brunettes brows.

Anastasia | Rich Brown ( Ultra Matte ).
Rich Brown is a neutral dark ash-brown. Not much more I can say about it other than it's a fantastic dark brown to deepen up the crease. I love this especially with cooler-toned eye looks. It's also another great shadow for filling in brunettes brows.

Makeup Geek | Corrupt ( Matte ).
One of the most intense matte black eyeshadows out there ( a long with Kat VonD and Urban Decay ). It is another eyeshadow that feels gritty and doesn't apply smooth. Due to it's insane pigment I use the tiniest bit and build up the colour in layers. This also helps with fall out, as this has A LOT of fall-out! I love this for setting my eyeliner so that it stays put all day.

Swatches: Morphe Bronzed Ivy - Karity Vino - Makeup Geek Bada Bing - Makeup Geek Mocha - Anastasia Beverly Hills Smoke - Anastasia Beverly Hills Rich Brown - Makeup Geek Corrupt


I have many other single eyeshadows on my wishlist, but I will discuss those in a future blogpost....
Brands i wish did pro pan single eyeshadows that can fit into a Z Palette ( without needing to be depotted ) are: Sleek Makeup, Urban Decay, Kat Von D, Too Faced, Zoeva and Stila. What brands would you love to see?

Karity Eyeshadows retail for $4.50 each | Link
I discovered Karity shadows through Nitraa B on Youtube. She claimed that they were MAC dupes but better quality. Though I love MAC I do find their eyeshadows to be a bit hit or miss. Some are amazingly smooth and easy to work with, while others are choppy and take too much work to build up colour or blend out. So, I was excited to give Karity a chance especially considering the price point is on par with Makeup Geek. Back in the Spring I ordered about a dozen eyeshadows and I will say that they have not disappointed! Each shadow I own by them whether they be a shimmer or matte, each is incredibly smooth, super pigmented and extremely long-wearing. Karity supply 5 different types of eyeshadow finishes ( Frost, Matte, Metallic, Satin & Velvet ) and from what i can see on their website 51 eyeshadows shades. They ship worldwide and also offer 10% off of your first order, though I was totally silly and forgot to use mine. Oh well I can use it for my 2nd order, especially as I am lusting after their new Glow palettes. I did not receive a customs charge on my order ( hooray ) and Karity are also cruelty free! I will discuss Karity shadows in more depth in a future blogpost.

Karity Links: Website: - Instagram - Facebook - Twitter

Makeup Geek Eyeshadows retail for £5.50 - £8.50 each | Link
I think it's got to be pretty obvious that I love Makeup Geek eyeshadows. I adore Marlenas passion and drive, and have thoroughly enjoyed supporting her company since she first started out years back. Makeup Geek have a very wide variety of eyeshadow colour choices and finishes. Most shadows don't have a lot of kick-up of fallout ( with the exception of a few ) and they are incredibly long-lasting. The price point really is fantastic, you can't beat it, especially for the quality! The shadows don't crease and they are easy to work with. Makeup Geek eyeshadows are some of my all time favourite eyeshadows ever and are my most owned eyeshadows in my custom palettes - especially now that I passed along a lot of my MAC shadows. All of Makeup Geek's eyeshadows are made within the USA, I am unsure if they are cruelty free or not.

Makeup Geek Links: Website: - Instagram - Facebook - Twitter

Anastasia Eyeshadows retail for $12 each | Link 
Anastasia eyeshadow formulations are simply Amazing ( now envision that sound of heavens gates opening up ). They are the most expensive of the bunch, but are so worth it. The eyeshadows have next to no fallout, fantastic longevity and the pigmentation I find to be consistent throughout the whole collection! The quality is just impeccable. Anastasia has a huge range of eyeshadows to choose, in a lot of different finishes ( Diamond Sparkle, Duo Chrome, Matte, Metallic, Satin, Shimmer, Sparkle, Titanium & Ultra Matte ). This brand is hugely successful through social media with 11 million followers just on their Instagram alone, Insane. No disappointment here.

Anastasia Beverly Hills Links: Website: - Instagram - Facebook - Twitter 

Morphe Eyeshadows retail for $2.29 each | Link. I Recommend through BeautyBay Link
Right! So, I placed my order directly with Morphe a year ago and I will say that it was a huge mistake! Their warehouse messed up and said the value of my package was 4x more than it was, which resulted in a huge £50 customs charge from UPS! Which has since doubled because I refused to pay for their mess up, so I am still disputing it *sad face emoji. Their customer service team never responded back to a single email I sent them, so I have not purchased from them directly ever since and unfollowed on Social Media. If I'm honest it put me off of the brand, which is a shame; But to be honest I'm not to bummed out about it as i am not a huge fan of the quality of their makeup products. Some of their eyeshadow palettes most of the shades look the same, and once blended they all look the same and blend out to nothing ( my IG friend Stef totally agrees with me ). However the handful of single shadows that I own, I actually like ( I had around 30 and now I only have 8 ). However because of how I was treated, and that they have not attempted to try to rectify the situation ( as a consumer I must not matter as I don't have millions of followers on social media ) I have decided that I will not be repurchasing any more Morphe eyeshadows after they run out, and will purchase similar shades from another more reputable, friendly company. However if you are a fan of Morphe shadows and are in the UK, I highly recommend that you use BeautyBay to purchase their shadows instead or find an American friend to help you out. The high customs is just not worth it for average quality, sorry. Ok, rant over lol.

I do hope that you enjoyed the post and found it insightful? If you have any warm eyeshadow recommendations you feel i may enjoy, please share in the comment section below....

Thanks for Reading Lovelies

Jamey xo

*Disclaimer - I only add links to websites i personally recommend or use.
All opinions are my own and you can read my full disclaimer here.

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  1. MUG Starry Eyed is one of my favourites from them along with Desert Sands, Cocoa Bear and Cosmopolitan. I really want to try some ABH shadows.

    EmmysBeautyCave | Bloglovin | Blog Header Services

    1. You have fabulous taste hun

      You will not regret the anastasia shadows if you do decide to purchase, the quality is amazing! Doesnt help atm with how rubbish the british £ is though :( We really do need Anastasia to allow other companies to sell her single pan shadows then we can buy them more easily without the customs.

      Thank you ever so much for stopping by lovely xo


  2. OMG, Flame Thrower you need to be mine! and soon@! that is a beautiful; palette I want more then half of the shadows!

    1. Girl!! Get making that christmas list lol


  3. This palette is just perfect! I love burgundy eyeshadows and warm browns all year round so when it comes to autumn winter, I'm definitely in my element!x

    Rebecca | Rebecca Olivia Capel

    1. Aww thank you Rebecca

      Do you own any of the Makeup Geek eyeshadows yet?

      Jamey xo

  4. What a fabulous post Jamey! I have some of the MUG shadows from your collection and really want to buy Frappe, Flame thrower and starry eyes.. I am sure this post took you a while to take all photos and write about each shadow. Great post and collection.

    Ash |

    1. It did take me quite some time, but i really enjoyed writing it :)
      How can you not own Frappe? I think Frappe, Starry Eyed and Flamethrower should be christmas treats to yourself. The new eyeshadows she has come out with look amazing!!!

      Than you for taking the time to post hunni, i really appreciate it xo

  5. Hi! This is one of the very best posts on shadow reviews! I own some MUG shadows already and am gearing up for another order for my Birthday this month. I am an almost 53 year old with hooded eyes, though not a lot of lines wrinkles for my age. I have learned to contour to hide the hoodedness, thankfully. I have cool/pink undertones in my skin and very light and with dark brown eyes. I tend to gravitate toward cool eye looks but trying to stretch myself a bit. I currently own creme brulee, homecoming, prom night, preppy, unexpected, cupcake, twilight and moondust. Creme brulee is a difficult one for me, doesn't flatter me at all.. too much orange undertones, but trying to layer other things over it in crease.. I really like preppy, that really works for me in the crease. Prom night, and moondust, sadly didn't work, too dark and definitely accentuated my dark circles (even wearing concealer, ha!) Anyhow, your post helped me to decide to get Rapunzel as one of my next shadows. I need the brightening shadows more and more these days. I was considering shimma shimma, but may be a bit too shimmery blingy for me. I also intend to get Pocket Change, Desert Sands, Cherry Cola for the Outer V, and bake sale. Thanks again for your great post!